POLPO - you have four yeses!

It is the wont of the restaurant reviewer to over indulge.

Starter, main, dessert, wine and coffee for two is the minimum expectation.

But not everyone has the time, or budget, for a three-course meal.

And so it was when this reviewer booked a table at Exeter’s newest restaurant, the Venetian-inspired Polpo.

We were looking for good food, nothing too heavy, served promptly for around £12 a head.

To really put our hosts to the test, I ordered one of the most expensive fish dishes (fritto misto) at £9.20.

My dining partner opted for the whipped smoked mackerel, pickled cucumber & carta di musica (a yeast-free bread) at £6.20.

Intrigued by the baby octopuses (£3.90) we also shared a starter as a side dish.

What first struck me was how Polpo had managed to pull off what so many restaurants fail to do … the décor.

All too often I find this either over the top, identikit or incongruous.

Polpo has a simple stripped back , rustic feel with white, roughly tiled walls and seating that feels lived in.

I personally love nearby Comptoir Libanais but it isn’t a place to go to with a hangover.

We’d hardly had time to take in the surroundings before our food arrived… and it was just as I like it… no cheffy drizzles, fancy flourishes or micro herbs – just two plates of honest to goodness grub.

My fritto misto batter was as light as angel wings and the fish, prawns and squid tender and tasty.

The whipped smoked mackerel dish (which is also available at breakfast time on a Focaccia for £6.30) was substantial, rich and creamy.

Both would have benefitted from a glass of Cortese, Tuffolo 15 (£8.50 a large glass or £24 a bottle) but this was a Tuesday lunchtime and we were feeling frugal.

Colleagues who have been to the restaurant recommend the mozzarella, tomato and basil skewers – ‘light, delicate and refreshing’; the broad bean pea and ricotta bruschetta – ‘unusual but delicious’ and the crab and chilli linguine – ‘simple yet sublime’.

With a coffee each to finish, we came within budget.

And from sitting down to settling up, we were at our table for just under an hour.

Despite that, at no time did we feel hurried or pressed for time.

The waiting staff were observant, attentive and friendly and refilled our table water bottle three times without having to be asked.

So…

Quality of food – check!

Standard of service – check!

Fine fayre on a budget – check!

Atmosphere – check!

Polpo – you have four yeses!!

Menu: http://www.polpo.co.uk/menu/regional-main

An all-day two-course menu is available