Review: Bistro Du Vin, Exeter

I was delighted to be asked to write a review of the new Spring Menu for the Bistro du Vin at the Hotel du Vin in Exeter.

I had only visited the hotel on one occasion for drinks and was pleasantly surprised by the light and airy bistro setting with views over the gardens.

The sun put in an appearance for our visit and as we sat by the large windows we were bathed in sunshine which added to the whole experience.

We were warmly welcomed at the hotel and were informed that in the next 12 months the whole hotel would be undergoing a major refurbishment in line with all the other Hotel du Vin interiors.

Currently there is a small and cosy bar area, a lounge with more comfortable seating and views over the grounds, a small room perfect for intimate family dinners or business meetings and the bistro where we were to dine. The tables are beautifully laid and spread out enough that you do not feel close to fellow diners, there are modern, well-stocked wine racks adorning the walls, modern lighting and a clear view through to the chefs working away in the kitchen.

We were greeted by a smartly-dressed and extremely pleasant waiter called Luke who looked after us throughout our visit. I always like to mention good customer service and Luke’s was exceptional. We asked about the menu and whether this menu has been created for the Bistro du Vin in Exeter and were told that it is the new Spring menu which has been rolled out across the country in all seventeen hotels. The chefs worked hard to create a selection of French inspired classic dishes alongside a range of hearty meat dishes and lighter plates – something to suit all tastes. The dishes rely heavily on fresh and seasonal produce and many of the ingredients are sourced locally to each of the hotels.

On first glance, the menu was huge with far too many delicious sounding dishes to tempt the tastebuds. Starters include Classic French Onion Soup, Steak Tartare, Severn and Wye Smoked Salmon Classic, Moules Marinieres and Sautéed Mushrooms on Brioche Toast. I selected the Chicken Liver Parfait with Brioche Toast and my dining partner ordered the Saint-Maure Goats Cheese Quiche with Caramelised Baby Onions. Both dishes were beautifully presented. My Chicken Liver Parfait was accompanied by a sweet raisin chutney and a slice of toasted Brioche. Sadly I soon polished off the toast but luckily had some of the bread and butter left that had arrived at our table after ordering. The quiche was served at room temperature with a drizzle of dressing and a few leaves. The starters range in price from £6.50 to £8.50 per person with a sharing platter for two also available – a selection of homemade Terrine and Cured Meats with Pickles and Dijon Mustard priced at £12.95.

There is a Fixed Price Menu which includes the Chicken Liver Parfait, the Smoked Salmon and Mushroom starters as previously mentioned followed by Grilled Toulouse Sausage with Puréed Potatoes and an Onion Jus, Moules Marinieres with Pommes Frites and an Aubergine and Halloumi Parmigiana Bake with a Chunky Tomato Sauce.

The desserts on this menu are Creme Brulée, Ice Creams and Sorbets or a Selection of three French or British Cheeses with biscuits and chutney. The price of this menu is £17.95 for a two-course lunch or 3 courses for £20.95, or a 2 course dinner for £18.95 or 3 course dinner for £21.95.

This really is, as Bistro du Vin says on their website, ‘all about enjoying moderately priced  la carte dining in a down-to-earth, warm and relaxing setting’.

I really enjoyed the relaxed service – that our empty plates weren’t whisked away the minute we downed our cutlery. There was nothing hurried here. It really was attentive service in a relaxed manner.

The fabulous main dishes on offer included a Cassoulet Classique, described as a Hearty Casserole of White Beans, Confit Duck, Smoked Toulouse Sausage and Pancetta priced at £16.00, Steak Haché with Sauce au Poivre with Pommes Frites and a House Salad for £13.50, Roast Cod with Lentilles de Puy, Button Onions and Pancetta at £16.95 and Bouillabaise, a traditional Provencal Fish Stew of Red Mullet, Monkfish, Sea Bass and Prawns at £17.95. There are also vegetarian and salad options, steaks, burgers, baguettes, omelettes and lighter dishes on offer. There really is something to suit everyone’s tastes and size of appetite.

I am particularly fond of veal and it is something I would never cook at home so I ordered the Rose Veal Holstein – an Escalope of Breaded Veal, topped with a Fried Egg, Anchovies, Capers and Beurre Noisette priced at £19.95, along with a side of Pomme Mousseline (mashed potato!). My friend ordered the Gloucester Old Spot Pork Belly with Pomme Mousseline and Jeu de Veau with a side of spinach and baby carrots at £17.50.

I have to say that I was absolutely smitten with the veal dish and want to go back for more. It was so tender and very lightly coated in breadcrumbs unlike a Wienerschnitzel you would have in Austria where the veal is totally coated in breadcrumbs. I was unsure about the fried egg on top of the veal when I ordered but it was an absolutely delightful combination. The whole baby carrots and spinach were beautifully cooked.

I think that this veal dish is now my ‘go to’ favourite dish in Exeter and I cannot wait to go back for more. I made sure I asked Luke to pass on my delight to the chef who apparently was delighted as it is one of his favourite dishes. If you have never tried veal or have always been a but sceptical about it, then Bistro du Vin is definitely the place to try it.

The sounds made by my dining partner made it clear that she was on to a winner with the Pork Belly too – another favourite dish of mine. It was beautifully cooked with the tender meat falling apart and the crispy topping ensuring the perfect balance. I wish I could get my mash as smooth and creamy as the Pomme Mousseline – a sheer pleasure to eat.

Much as I wanted my main course to go on and on and on....(have you guessed I was rather taken with the veal dish) after a paused we decided that it wouldn’t be right to leave without sampling the delights of the dessert menu. This was a tough choice for me with three of my favourite puddings on the menu – Creme Brulée, Tarte au Citron with Raspberry Sorbet and Profiteroles. After much deliberation we agreed to share a Creme Brulée and ordered just one profiterole as we felt that really was all we could squeeze in! The Creme Brulée was one of the best I have tasted, not too sweet, rich and creamy with a crunchy topping and a very generous portion – certainly ample for two to share! The Profiteroles Du Vin are Choux Pastry filled with Vanilla Ice Cream (instead of the usual cream filling) topped with Chocolate Sauce. I am glad we only ordered one – it was exquisite and I would have devoured the lot had more appeared! Other delights included Ile Flottante, Creme Anglaise with Caramel Sauce and Toasted Almonds and Apple Tarte Tatin – surely a must on every French Bistro inspired menu. The desserts all priced between £5.95 and £6.95 (very reasonable) were paired on the menu with a suitable dessert wine, but with one of us driving and work to be done after lunch, we had to stick to water!

If you have less of a sweet tooth and prefer to round off your meal with cheese and biscuits then you are in for a treat. The Cheese Trolley menu offers a selection of 8 fine cheeses including Colston Bassett Shropshire Blue (I mention this one as it’s from my childhood stomping ground), Blue Monday named after the New Order anthem and made in Yorkshire, Driftwood, a goat’s cheese hailing from Glastonbury in Somerset, Camembert from Normandy and Tommette de Brebis Petit – a traditional sheeps’ cheese from the Pyrenees. I love cheese and fancy a visit just to try the array of cheeses with a rather large glass of port!

I cannot fault one thing about our visit to Bistro du Vin...and did I mention the veal? You would be hard pushed to find better service, relaxed dining at these prices, exceptionally good food in the centre of Exeter. There is also the option to stay on a Friday night, enjoy a three course dinner for two from the Fixed Price Menu with a bottle of Champagne starting at £150. I think I will need to sort a baby-sitter!

Thank you Bistro for a wonderful lunch, and to Luke for your attentive, knowledgeable service. To find out more visit the website at www.hotelduvin.com

Review by Lisa Singleton