A new dawn for fine dining? Trencherman’s Guide heralds a new era for hospitality
At the recent launch of the 31st edition of the Trencherman’s Guide – the South West’s original dining guide – Michael Caines MBE, chair of the Trencherman’s committee, said: ‘Many have declared a new dawn for fine dining in this post-Covid world – and this 31st edition of the Trencherman’s Guide proves it.
‘In the South West and across the rest of the UK, the dining scene is evolving; there’s no question about it,’ says Michael, a leading light on the South West food scene who owns Michelin-starred Lympstone Manor in Devon, The Cove at Maenporth in Cornwall, and Mickeys Beach in Exmouth. ‘Browse the pages of the Trencherman’s Guide edition 31 and you’ll find, more than ever before, the diverse ways that chefs and restaurateurs are extending their core business to incorporate a variety of dining experiences that don’t compromise on quality.
‘From wood-fired pizzas served on hotel terraces to family-friendly beach bars and fish shacks in pub gardens, authentic South West dining experiences are reaching an even greater audience, which is fantastic for everyone – including the region’s food and drink producers. The ceremony of multi-course meals and starched linen still holds huge appeal to those chasing a real sense of occasion – but it’s time to expand our perspective on the definition of the most exquisite dining experiences.’
The annual epicurean bible for the region launched its latest edition on Monday September 25 at Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling in Carbis Bay with a champagne reception andexquisite four-course lunch. This year’s guide, which covers the entire South West region from Land’s End to the furthest reaches of Dorset and the Cotswolds, features 106 restaurants that have surpassed the strict Trencherman’s entry criteria. This year’s members range from formal restaurants to dining pubs, bistros and bottle shops.
At the helm of the guide is new editor Abi Manning, who describes it as ‘a true celebration of the best places to eat in the South West – in their many guises. The concept of fine dining isn’t dead, but there’s certainly a movement towards a more casual restaurant experience, as shown in the guide. This is the direction the industry is now taking – as a result of food and energy prices putting pressure on restaurants, as well as the cost-of-living crisis for consumers. However, quality is still key and we believe a casual meal using hyper-local ingredients cooked extremely well is equally as valid as a multi-course tasting menu.’
Abi points to the 25 new additions to the guide: ‘It’s evidence of the talent that continues to flourish in this food-rich corner of the UK,’ she says. ‘The guide – and the independent dining scene – is moving into a new era. We’re incredibly lucky that we have such an abundance of incredible chefs paving the way, and along with their teams are finding innovative methods to use the rich produce of our land and sea to create memorable dining experiences.’
The guide launched in style at the event in north Cornwall, attended by Trencherman’s members and guide partners Dole, The Eco Laundry, PKF Francis Clark, Hallgarten & Novum Wines, Navas Drinks and Trevethan Cornish Craft Distillery. Event suppliers included Yallah Coffee, Matthew Stevens Cornish Fish, Philip Warren Butchers and Otter Valley Farms.
A sumptuous four-course banquet was created by four chefs who appear among its pages: Ugly Butterfly chef-patron Adam Handling (and this year’s Champion of Champions on Great British Menu), Guy Owen of The St Enodoc Hotel in Cornwall, Harriet Mansell of Robin Wylde in Dorset and Nicholas Balfe of HOLM in Somerset. Each chef sought to highlight the bountiful produce of the South West, with ingredients including Somerset lamb, Cornish duck, Dorset dandelion root and Cornish seaberry.
Order your copy of the 31st Trencherman’s Guide at trenchermans-guide.com
